Hey, look, it's a Colette Hawthorn!
I made a lot of changes! Let me name the ways:
- Shortened bodice. This isn't an alteration that I'm used to making! But when I tried it on in my gingham muslin fabric, it was very apparent that it needed to happen. I shortened the whole thing by .5" and the sides by another .25" (for a total of .75"). That's not much, but it made a big difference.
- No collar. I made a bunch of muslins of the bodice as I worked out the fit, and I found myself liking the collarless variation. It's mentioned in the instruction booklet as a possibility, but it was Marie's version that really sold me on it. And I love the finished version. I was on the fence about buying the Hawthorn pattern for a while, because that collar never looked quite right to me, so maybe I'll try a collared version someday... but maybe not.
- Moved buttons further in. The waist on my final version felt a little loose, so I knew I'd be moving them in by some amount. So I measured a RTW shirtdress and found that its buttons were .75" away from the edge, so I went with that. Could probably take in the side seams a smidge, but I like having room to breathe -- can't stand skintight, straining-when-sitting button closures!
- Button placement. I had several rules: one button at the apex, one at the top, and space for a belt. The way this worked out meant that the top buttons are spaced 2.25" apart, and the lower ones, 2.5".
- 1" SBA. I rotated some of the waist dart into a bust dart, did the SBA from there, then rotated the bust dart back into the waist dart. Cumbersome but effective. All tutorials out there involve both a bust and waist dart (or in the case of this lovely tutorial for Sureau, there's gathering but no dart -- same problem), and I didn't have much luck with the method in the otherwise encyclopedic Fitting and Pattern Alteration. But this worked like a charm and really wasn't that much of a pain!
- Shortened the skirt by 1.5" (and hemmed with serge-and-turn, which used about 3/8") to get to my magic length.
It's definitely more of a summer-y dress. So this is probably the last time for months that it'll be worn without tights and a cardigan.
I'm really pleased with the fit, even though it required a few muslins to get the length right. Making more Hawthorns should be a snap, and I definitely plan to make a few winter-ier dresses and tops.
I like it with a belt, to break up the pattern a bit, but here's a shot without. What do you think?
Hey! I made a Colette Mabel miniskirt!
It's fantastic. It's comfy. It's cute. It took less than an hour to make, and less than a yard of fabric. Fits like a glove. A++ will make again.
I cut a size medium at the waist and graded up to a large at the hips. For any pear or hourglass noobs out there, this was a really easy change to make, and it worked perfectly. A close-fitting skirt that fits at both the waist and the hips is something that just doesn't exist in ready-to-wear for so many of us. It took much less than a yard of this kickass polka dot ponte from Girl Charlee.
Those two photos were from the ballpark! It's July, and I was too cold in tights and a sweater, because Seattle. We went to the annual Mariners' Stitch N Pitch, and it was great fun. Debbie Bliss threw the first pitch and got rowdy cheers from the stands -- pretty amazing. All kinds of knitters and crocheters and fiber enthusiasts turned out, and the stands were filled with young, hip knitters sitting next to grandmas sitting next to groups of chatty middle-aged ladies having a night out with the girls (and the occasional mildly-uncomfortable looking husband), all united in their love of yarn and baseball. And beer and ballpark food.
There were lots of vendors set up, including the world's greatest standee:
His name is Ice Cream, and they invited us out to meet him any time. Definitely going to take them up on that, because I have to know what his face actually looks like.
Wait, what was I talking about? Right: Mabel!
Mabel was a hit -- a homerun, if you will. (Thank you! Tip your waitress!) While I was looking for the stand that sold vegetarian hotdogs, a Safeco Field employee stopped me to say that everything I had going on was fantastic, and I should be on Wendy Williams -- I missed what segment she said, because I was too busy being relieved that I hadn't committed some sort of terrible crime and was being thrown out. So, thanks, super nice Safeco Field lady, and I apologize for deer-in-the-headlights-ing!
Anyway, it's so very comfortable -- I've been wearing it when I hang out around the house, and as nicer go-out-in-public clothes. It's a rare piece that has full-on loungewear levels of comfort while still looking totally presentable. It sits a few inches below the natural waist, so I think it's just a touch less flattering than it could be with a loose top than if it ended a little higher, but I like the silhouette anyway. Here's what I wore to work(-from-home) the other day:
I'm digging the current trend of easy-to-wear-and-sew knits that's been happening lately. I've already made another Mabel, and I have a Myrtle lined up next (after I finish the Thurlow shorts I'm currently working on), so that'll be 7 of my last 10 sewing projects have been made with knits. Wow.
I've also been struggling with getting the fit right on McCall's 6696, a shirtdress, but I think I'm about to give up on it and try another shirtdress pattern, since I've been collecting them like they're an endangered species. I'm almost in the mood for something more technically challenging than these bite-sized knits projects, but they're just so fun and comfy and it's summer and I want knit dresses. So we'll see what project gets finished, worn, and blogged next!
Have you been on a particular sewing kick lately? Sundresses or knits or quick projects, perhaps?
Hey guys! My pattern stash is getting out of control, and I'm thinking about holding an e-garage sale to clear out some unused ones. If you have a moment, I'd really appreciate your two cents!
Happy Fourth, Americans!
I saw the crazy Fourth of July fabrics on Girl Charlee and had to go for it. I made a Colette Moneta with a partial circle skirt (this one from my Tiramisu pattern) instead of the gathered skirt, just like my last one. These things come together so fast, it's amazing. It's a beautiful day in Seattle, so we walked around the bit of Seafair that's south of Lake Union.
I have a secret for matching stripes -- want to hear it? I use a disappearing fabric marker to mark on the pattern where the stripe is, and which colors go where. Works like a charm! Any temporary marks I want to make, I just write on there, and it's gone the next time I use the pattern.
Not the greatest picture, but see what I mean? I also mark at the corners and in a few other places, because that helps make sure every little bit is perfectly aligned. Easy peasy!
Have any tricks for matching stripes?